Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan has set records by becoming the first individual from Pakistan to reach the summits of all the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without relying on supplemental oxygen.
Sirbaz Khan, who originates from Hunza Valley, achieved the summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters) on Sunday, concluding a lengthy endeavor to conquer the world’s highest and most dangerous mountains. While he had previously ascended all 14 peaks by 2024, several of his earlier summits were completed using bottled oxygen.
In April 2025, he revisited Annapurna and now Kangchenjunga, both without using artificial oxygen, to achieve the challenge in a true alpine style. Sirbaz Khan now belongs to a prestigious group of about 70 climbers worldwide who have reached the summits of all 14 peaks.
Fewer than 25 have done so entirely without supplemental oxygen, a strenuous challenge that involves climbing in the infamous “death zone,” where oxygen levels are critically insufficient. His journey commenced in 2017 with a successful ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m), one of the world’s most dangerous mountains.
He continued to summit K2 in 2018 and Lhotse in 2019 — becoming the first Pakistani to reach its peak — and achieved a significant height without oxygen that same year.
In July 2019, Khan added a large peak to his list of achievements, accomplishing its 8,051-meter summit without supplementary oxygen—a hallmark of his climbs.
Later that year, in September, he summited Manaslu in Nepal, becoming the second Pakistani to reach its 8,163-meter top.
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Khan’s determination remained steadfast, and in April 2021, he became the first Pakistani to summit Annapurna, one of the deadliest mountains in the world.
The following month, he successfully summited Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, at 8,849 meters.
In July 2021, Khan led an all-Pakistani team to the summit of Gasherbrum II, standing at 8,050 meters, further cementing his recognition as a leader in extreme-altitude mountaineering.
Just a few months later, in October 2021, he became the first Pakistani to summit Dhaulagiri, an 8,167-meter peak.
He continued to break barriers in 2022, summiting Kangchenjunga in May and Makalu later that month, becoming the first Pakistani to conquer both of those ambitious mountains.
In August of the same year, he led another successful expedition to Gasherbrum I, marking his 12th summit of an 8,000-meter peak.
In October 2023, Khan delivered Cho Oyu to his listing of conquests, becoming the first Pakistani to summit the 8,188-meter peak. Then, with his successful ascent of Shishapangma on October 4, 2024, he became the first Pakistani to overcome all 14 of the world’s highest peaks.
Now, by re-summiting Annapurna and Kangchenjunga without supplemental oxygen, Sirbaz Khan has added some other remarkable successes to his legacy.